The beach was very pleasent it was sandy so it was safe when we came to the shore, the waves were no more than 1.5 foot tall, perfect for practising. There was a massive landmark on the dunes, it was the staircase, we could see it from everywhere we made sure that we were always in line with it and did not float of. On the dunes there was tremedus amounts of shrubery that held the sand on the foredune in place otherwise it would have blown away by the force ful winds we were experiencing in the water.
There are three main stages to stand on your surfboard:
- Paddle when the waves gets close to you
- When you can feel the wave has hit you put your hands on the board towards the edge with elbows pointing outwards and push so that your chest is not touching the board and you head is up.
- Then you jump and twist your body into poisiton making sure that your back foot is on a 90 degree angle and your front foot is on a 45 degree angle.
- Otherwise you can take the slower approach and slide your dominant foot into position and then slide your other foot into position whilst still holding on to your board.
- Then turn your feet into the right angles (90 and 45) then let go of the board with your hands and you will be surfing but try to bend your knees and stay low as it reduces drag.
The worst part was when we all caught this massive wave and I was going really well but someone came right in front of me so I smashed straight into them and then he smashed into someone else causing a chain reaction. Then the other part was when another massive wave came I could quite catch it so I was dunked massively and even worse was that my mouth was open so I gulped loads of saltwater.When I was underwater I did a forward somersalut and apperanlty my board was flying around in the air.
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